Notables

There are so many memories that I carry with me from this exchange–ranging from humorous to horrifying to heartfelt.

  • eating pupusas and drinking horchata at Pupusas Tita

Pupusas and Horchata

  • watching the sunset at Coatepeque Lake

Coatepeque Lake

  • capturing an image of the full moon above the basketball courts of Santa Ana

Moon and Hoops, Santa Ana

  • sharing the first fruit from the tree at Benjamin’s house with his wonderful mother, Gladys

Fruits of the Season

  • exchanging stories about our children and sharing photographs with Leonardo

Mr. Leonardo

  • feeling guilty because Teacher Karla became ill after eating some chocolate that I gave her….feeling excited because she is expecting her first baby!

Teacher Karla

  • making sure I never took the same path twice upon leaving and returning to my hotel (thanks for the advice, Benjamin)

Santa Ana Market

  • listening to Judah and Rachel “record” their wonderful songs

Judah and Rachel

  • shaking my head in dismay at what appears to be a conquest of local culture by U.S. companies

The Conquest Continues

  • eating the BEST school lunches, ever!

Fresh Fish

Fresh Tacos

  • discussing the teaching of history without bias….and how difficult this proves to be when one relies on textbooks with Mr. Panama
    History Teacher Extraordinaire, Mr. Panama

    History Teacher Extraordinaire, Mr. Panama

    • attending a local community meeting for the “Julia” neighborhood and discovering that one consequence of “gossiping” about one’s neighbor was to be called before the board to resolve the dispute. The group does amazing community service work in terms of teaching English, addressing safety concerns, and insuring that students have access to recreational facilities.
      Neighborhood Committee in Santa Ana

      Neighborhood Committee in Santa Ana

      • experiencing the amazing Mayan ruins in Chalchuapa, followed by a wonderful lunch of yuca! Continue reading
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La educación para los hijos de los trabajadores/Education for the Sons of the Worker

Water Fountain Version 1

Water Fountain Version 2

Water Fountain Version 3

Often I’ll see websites that have two similar pictures side-by-side with a caption underneath that reads:  “What’s the big difference?”  The idea is that the viewer will then look for small changes in the images presented.  I ask that you do the same with the pictures above.  All three are pictures of water fountains at schools in El Salvador, but there are some clear differences in the images presented.  So, easy answers include:  one has plants in it, one has kids in it, one has a hand sanitizer next to it.

Having taken these photographs myself, I can tell you that the differences are far greater than they appear.  For me, these images symbolize the vast gap, in terms of economics and education, that exists in El Salvador.  This gap exists in the United States as well, though it’s not something that is highly focused upon unless its an election year.  Sorry, I will try to keep these views to a minimum.  Here are a few numbers from 2005 that will provide an understanding of the distribution of wealth in El Salvador:  20% of the people live in extreme poverty–living on less than $1.00 a day. Without “remittances,” money sent to El Salvadorians from relatives living outside the country, the poverty rate would be around 37%.  In fact, through most of the twentieth century the wealth in El Salvador was controlled by only 2% of the population.

Water Fountain Version 1 is located at my host school, Escuela Interamericana, a private school serving primarily upper to upper middle class families, serving approximately 330 students.  Tuition is $180.00 per month.

Water Fountain Version 2 is located at Colegio Bautista, a private school serving primarily middle class families, serving approximately 400 students. Tuiton is $55.00 per month.

Water Fountain Version 3 is located at Centro Escolar Tomas Medina, a public school serving approximately 1,785 students. There is no tuition.

As is the case here in the United States, the quality of education and facilities vary tremendously in El Salvador.   I knew that Interamericana, my host school, was a private, bi-lingual, college preparatory high school, creating an image in mind of to expect.  I wasn’t surprised to see immaculate grounds, a fully stocked tech lab, and fairly motivated students.  In general, the students were often smiling as they crossed the campus, dramatically waving at me and cheerily calling, “Hello, Miss Julie! Are you going to be teaching this morning?” or “Buenos dias, Miss!  What else are you exploring in El Salvador today?”  In turn, they eagerly “volunteered” to pose  or inquired about what I had experienced in their country  Their energy and enthusiasm were infectious, as was the tremendous pride they have in El Salvador.  Many proclaimed their love for their country–its people, its food, its culture.

I knew that my experience at Interamericana would be a bit different than my day-to-day teaching in Boston within minutes of my first class.  When I entered the room, the students immediately quieted down, at times a rarity in my classes in Boston, and took out their notebooks.  Next, when I greeted them all with a “Good morning,” the students responded in unison, “Good morning, teacher.”  Shocked by this enthusiastic greeting, I repeated my words.  Once again, the students greeted me just as they had the first time.  If I thought I could, I probably would have repeated this “dialogue” for the remainder of class.  I can probably count on one hand the number of times that I’ve been greeted in this manner by students in my twenty years of teaching.

When my host teacher, Benjamin, said that he would like me to teach on the first day, I admit that I was a little surprised and a bit panicked.  I thought that I would have a day to acquaint myself with the school– ah well!  The focus topic for my first class was events leading to the outbreak of World War II.  So, I have never actually taught a lesson on WW II.  Benjamin seemed fairly relaxed about this matter, simply providing me with the textbook and guiding me to the pages covering this period.  Now I was presented with dilemma number two–a textbook.  Though I often take readings from various sources, textbooks included, I do not use a standard textbook on a regular basis.  One of the aspects of my profession that I love is creating curriculum.  I would find it very stifling if my teaching experience consisted of moving chapter-by-chapter through a textbook or to primarily use pre-made assessments and guides.  I love to look for connections between history and current issues in the world.  I love  assessments that provide students with the opportunity to apply what they’ve learned to their own lives.

Given that I had only a short period of time in which to develop a focus for class, I went back to the good old “objective”–What did I want students to know and be able to do at the conclusion of the class?  I wanted students to be able to think about the significance of the events leading to WWII, rather than my merely telling them what was significant.  I realized that my style might be a bit different for students, as the lecture format appeared to be the favored style of the classes I had observed that morning.  With my objective in mind, I decided to focus on Cornell Notes, which helps students think about the questions that go along with “answers” of historical events, and “jigsaw” reading, which allows students to be experts about a particular area of the reading and results in student led, rather than teacher led, discussions.

After modeling the approaches we were going to use in this work, the students divided into expert groups to begin questioning and reading.  For many this type approach, student as expert, proved a bit daunting.  Yet, after a bit of encouragement and practice, they began to trust in their ability to determine what information was important.  Unfortunately, time did not permit us to finish the reading on this day, but it the students were very excited about being given ownership for their learning.  Strangely enough, after I thanked the students for their willingness to push their comfortable limits during our work, the entire class began applauding.   I was really in shock!  I asked Benjamin if he had told the students to do so, he assured me that he had not.  In addition to the applause, students made a point of telling me how much they enjoyed the class and thanked me for working with them.

This experience was continued throughout my time at Interamericana.  I truly found the students interest in my techniques and ideas about teaching and learning “refreshing.”

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to visit two other schools while in Santa Ana.  My host attended the Colegio Bautista, so he was able to set-up a tour with the principal.  Interestingly, though this school costs less to attend than Interamericana, the facilities and approaches to teaching, in particular the new “language wing” where students focus on strengthening their skills in English, quite impressive.  The majority of the students are from middle to lower income families, as the school offers quite a few scholarships for those unable to afford the tuition.  I did not teach a lesson in this school, but in my observations it was evident that the majority of the teachers were well trained, for they tended to rely less on following a textbook and more on engaging learners through well-developed curriculum.  There was far less focus on lecturing and far more focus on small group work and discussions.  As a learner, I know that this school would definitely push my comfortable limits and allow me to be an active participant in my learning.

I also found the principal at Colegio Bautista to be truly dedicated to strengthening the learning opportunities for students.  He outlined the plan to further increase use of technology, though there were clearly more computers and Smartboards than at Interamericana (sorry).  In turn, he discussed the importance of having students not just learn academics, but to also understand the importance of understanding one’s role within society and how one might contribute.  His passion for his work was evident throughout our time together.  One piece that I loved was that he pushed me to speak in Spanish.  I do not, as I’ve previously written, speak the language, so I appreciated his attempts to help me communicate in Spanish.  When I mispronounced something, he patiently repeated the word until I was able to pronounce it correctly.  Clearly, he is a true teacher!

My final school visit was to Centro Escolar Tomas Medina, a public high school in Santa Ana.  Though, unfortunately, my time was short at Centro, it was at this school that I met the teacher with which I most identified, Teacher Ana Elisa Jimenez de Rivas.  She is a truly amazing educator who loves her work and cares tremendously for her students. Note:  Ana has 40+ students per class as compared with an average of 22-28 in the other schools outlined.  Her work is definitely more in line with mine than either of the other schools I visited.  Ana works with students who live in very unsafe conditions.  Many of the children’s family members have experienced violence at the hands of gangs or are themselves gang members.  In reality, though the school is K-12, many of the students will leave by ninth grade to either work to help support their families or join gangs in order to survive.  In Boston I’ve had similar experiences with families, but I do believe that we’re beginning to see a shift, to some extent, in regards to the influence of gangs in the lives of students.  Unfortunately, with the economy stalled in the US, many of my students are finding themselves working more or acting as a caregiver for younger siblings.  So, it is with Teacher Ana that I felt most comfortable and with her I wish that I could have spent more time.

I felt that students at Centro were a bit more guarded when they met me and when I asked to take pictures.  Though I’m not sharing these photos, if you were to compare them, just as you would those of the water fountains above, you would understand what I’m attempting to convey about the demeanor of these young people.   Yet, I understand their uncertainty, for, as Ana explained, many of these students struggle to make it to and from school.  Thus, Ana has taken it upon herself to organize study groups to insure that students are together in groups in the safety of the classroom or at a home, for being alone, whether on their way home or in their homes, creates a tremendous risk to their well-being.  Another piece that stood out for me in this school was the lack of resources, especially when compared to that of the private schools I visited.  Since Centro is a public school, the government is supposed to provide students with supplies, 10 pencils and 6 notebooks, at the beginning of the school year.  By the time that I visited school had been in session for several months and students still did not have supplies.  As a result, many students were reusing paper from the previous year, vigorously erasing any notes they had written.

My experience at Centro was probably one of my most profound during my time in El Salvador.  I definitely believe that Teacher Ana is one of those kindred spirits that you read about, but yet you never truly believe that such a person exists; however, given that we communicated immediately after my exchange and that the members of my learning community were extremely interested in her work in El Salvador, I know that we will continue to share our work with one another.

So, though the initial images of this post appear to simply be water fountains, they do symbolize a great deal more.  They’re representative of the very different resources and educational experiences that are available to the young people of Santa Ana.  As I’ve experienced in my own work, the economic situations and environmental influences of the students will greatly determine the paths of their lives.  Teacher Ana stresses to her students the importance of education–that it is a way to improve their lives–but she, too, understands that this promise is often overshadowed by the realities of needing to survive in El Salvador.

Aside: Remittances appear to be tremendously helpful in lowering the poverty rate in El Salvador; however, while there I noted long lines outside a few buildings one day.  When I asked Benjamin what the lines were for, he explained that the people were “waiting for money from family in the U.S.”  Furthermore, in many instances those who travel to the U.S. end up leaving family members behind, usually young children, with other relatives.  I can’t help but wonder what it would be like as a child to have little to no contact with my parents for months or years at a time. I know there will be those who want me to comment on immigration in the U.S. here, both legal and illegal, but that’s not the focus of my observation.  Sorry!

The other area in which I noticed the impact of remittances was at the grocery store.  When I went shopping with Benjamin and Amy, his most wonderful wife, they were buying beans to have with dinner.  As we walked a package of dried beans, I said to Amy, “Oh, that’s what I usually buy, soaking them overnight and cooking them the next day.”  She replied, picking up a package of pre-prepared beans, “That’s what we used to buy, but they’re too expensive now.  Plus, with the cost of gas for the stove being $13.00 a month, cooking them just adds to the expense.”  Showing me the package of beans in her hand, I noted that the price was $1.50.  I then looked at the bag of dried beans and saw that the price was $4.50.  Really?  I can buy dried beans for around $1-2.00 a bag!  So, if Amy were to buy dried bean and cook them, she would probably spend about $4-5.00 more per meal!  That’s a tremendous difference, especially when you’re living on a teacher’s salary in El Salvador ($150-250 month) and trying to feed a family of five!  In doing  a little research, I discovered that the price of food has increased dramatically, primarily due to the influx of remittance funds.

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The Geeky New Kid

More than a few people have asked why I would want to spend one week of my vacation, use two of my personal days, and lose three sick days to go to work in another country for two weeks.  Those who know me well already know the answer….I am a geek.   Being a geek, there are certain things about which I am passionate.  Teaching is one of them. Realistically, then, what teaching geek wouldn’t give up personal time to have the opportunity to observe and work with teachers in another country, especially in a region of the world to which she’s never been?

When I first accepted into the TEA program, I was informed that I would be traveling to Russia.  I envisioned myself traveling to Siberia to visit a camp similar to that which inspired author Alexander Solzhenitsyn to write One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich, wandering through the streets of St. Petersburg retracing the steps of author Fydor Doestoevsky’s Crime and Punishment protagonist Raskolnikov, and drinking vodka with locals at a dingy bar in Moscow.  Then, the email arrived stating that I would be traveling to El Salvador for my exchange, rather than traveling to Russia.  My initial thoughts–Damn, there goes my great literary adventure (I’m a sucker for those Russian writers).  I bet it’s a lot more expensive to travel to Russia than El Salvador.  Will I ever again see any of the teachers from Russia that I met in the orientation session in Nebraska?  Will I ever make my way to Russia?

After my initial dismay, however, I realized that traveling to El Salvador was definitely going to be a unique opportunity.  Selfishly, I relished the thought of being forced to trade in my parka for flip-flops.  Also, traveling to El Salvador was most likely a better fit in terms of my own teaching situation. Working in the city of Boston, I have a multitude of students who hail from Central American countries, primarily  El Salvador and Guatemala.  Several of these students have talked about the differences and similarities between education in their native lands, so I was now going to have the opportunity to view these differences and similarities firsthand.  Thus, my initial disappointment changed to extreme excitement–especially when my El Salvadorean students started talking about eating pupusas and drinking horchata!

Escuela Interamericana, Santa Ana

Escuela Interamericana, Santa Ana

First Day Jitters!

http://www.interschool.edu.sv/actividades.html

The first day of school is always exciting, if you’re a geek, but it can also be scary.  Imagine walking into school on your first day in a new country–you don’t speak the language, you don’t know the customs, and you don’t have any friends.  Personally, I’ve never really been in this position before.  When I entered Escuela Interamericana in Santa Ana on February 14th, I understood exactly how my English Language Learners feel upon beginning school in the United States.  Fortunately, Interamericana focuses on teaching in both Spanish and English, so I knew that I would have a bit of help from students and faculty as I orientated myself to the school.  I recalled the sad joke about languages with Americans—the punchline all too real:

What do you call someone who speaks three languages? Trilingual
What do you call someone who speaks two languages?  Bilingual                                    What do you call someone who speaks one language? American

I know that I’ve been the focus of jokes before, but in this case I was embarrassed that I fulfilled the stereotype of Americans as self-centered and uninterested in the rest of the world.   Interestingly, several teachers and parents at Interamericana apologized to me for their poor English upon meeting me.  When I replied that I was sorry that I did not speak Spanish, they quickly asserted that they were at fault for our inability to communicate.  The manner of their responses suggested that English was, for some inexplicable reason, a “better” language than Spanish.  Honestly, I found this deference for English a bit disturbing.

Aside:  Before leaving Boston my students did a video for the students in El Salvador about culture in America and their thoughts on what life was like in Central America.  At the end of the video, I asked them if there was anything else they would like to ask or add.  Two of my Latino students shouted, “Teach her Spanish! Teach her Spanish!  Ms. Wright needs to learn Spanish!”  Their mandate was quite clear.  Thus, I vowed to learn at least 15 words in Spanish in my two-week exchange–at least beyond the words hola, adios, and cervesa that were already entrenched in my vernacular.

First Day: Shaved Ice & Lime
Valentine’s Day: Shaved Ice & Lime

My first day happened to fall on St. Valentine’s Day, so the students and faculty, much to my surprise as I consider this day to be a Hallmark Holiday in the U.S., were rushing about the school exchanging cards and sweets.  Those of you who know my love for sweets (Frank) will understand that I knew that I had landed in utopia!  Within minutes of my arrival I was introduced to El Salvadorian luscious delights– pastel de tres leches (cake of three milks) and semita de pina (jam-filled pastry)– and offered traditional treats from home– Hersey’s kisses and DumDum lollipops.  In addition to these wonderful confections, the students were making natural fruit juice shaved ice treats.  I was surprised to see how diligently the students worked to shave the ice from a huge block, along with the number of lime carcasses strewn about the table on which these treats were being made.  Yes, this was going to be my kind of school!

 

Interamericana, Santa Ana

Interamericana, Santa Ana

The first things that struck me about the Interamericana–its cleanliness, its open spaces, and its people.

All too often in my current job I enter the bathroom only to discover that there’s no toilet paper, no hand soap, and no hand towels.  These may not seem like a big deal, but it is a major problem when you’re working in a building with 350+ individuals using the same two bathrooms without these supplies for weeks at a time (even after you’ve asked maintenance for refills). Also, it’s not uncommon when staying late at school to see furry little friends scampering under the door in search of food particles (last week I counted five in a matter of three minutes).  Nor is it unusual to find sticky remnants of juice or sour milk untouched by a mop for months.  Some of you reading this piece will, I am sure, remind me that I work in a public school, rather than a for-profit private school, yet it seems as though basic cleanliness should be an expectation in either setting.

Interamericana:  I can see my reflection in those windows!

Interamericana: I can see my reflection in those windows!

 

Spotless

Spotless

Glorious Greenery

Glorious Greenery

The maintenance crew was ever present at Interamericana.   Not an hour went by when they weren’t cleaning windows, mopping floors, dusting surfaces, or watering plants.  The facility was spotless!  So, I bow down to the meticulous maintenance team.  I truly appreciate the diligence and care with which you oversee Interamericana.

Next, having come from a school where students do not have the opportunity to venture outside during the day, I was in awe of the open-spaces on the campus.  I am used to a school with narrow hallways, closed door classrooms, and a dimly-lit, basement cafeteria.  Here, the students wandered about the grounds of the school–playing soccer or eating breakfast.  Given that I work in Boston, where it’s quite chilly for the better part of the school year, having an outdoor cafeteria is not a realistic possibility; however, it would be nice to give our kids the opportunity to have lunch in a better setting or to run outside when we do have good weather.

Breakfast Break=Time to Climb

Breakfast Break=Time to Climb

Cafeteria

Cafeteria

Who needs lunch?

Who needs lunch?

Finally, given that El Salvador is such an unsettled place (see previous post regarding violence, guns, and gangs), the people at this school (along with the others I had the good fortune of visiting) were extremely welcoming and kind.  I was taken by surprise on my first day when Meriam, who worked in the cafeteria, brought me my morning tea and a pupusa.  It felt very awkward to have a staff member wait on me at work, as this has never occurred in my twenty years of teaching.   I attempted to get my own tea over the next few weeks as often as possible, for I never felt right having Meriam “wait” on me; I loved the bond that I formed with Meriam.  We communicated via faulty attempts at sign language and “tales” of our children (I showed her photographs of my adult sons and she introduced her children when I taught Saturday Extension School).  From Meriam I learned the word “caliente,” which means “hot,” in order to ask for “agua caliente” for my “te” and the phrase “Buenos Tardes,” which means “Good afternoon.”  I should note that I also learned that “caliente” is often used in reference to Teacher Karla! ; ).  Upon leaving Santa Ana, I knew that Meriam would always hold a special place in my heart.  Though unable to communicate in words, we were able to  communicate through the international language of motherhood.



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Faith (2.13.11)

Awoke to a beautiful morning with the temperature around 78.  From what I’ve read the temperatures tend to be very consistent in El Salvador–90 degrees in the day and 70 degrees at night.  What a welcome change from temperatures this past week in Boston–a high of 18 yesterday.  Honestly, I am thrilled to be here during the month of February, rather than April as I initially planned.  After what was one of the worst winters ever in Boston, there’s something wonderful about knowing that you’ll not have to check the weather for the next two weeks or worry that you’ll have another snow day (though I am very thankful that we had so many this year—I would not have been ready for my exchange).

Which is bigger--my car or the snow pile?

Which is bigger--my car or the snow pile?

Winter in The Bean

Winter in The Bean, 2011

Benjamin explained that when he traveled to the U.S. for his exchange two years ago that he found it strange that everyone was constantly checking the weather.  He did, however, soon find out, after being caught unprepared in a downpour, why we Americans tend to be so obsessed with the weather.

After yesterday’s long day of travel and this morning’s yoga practice, I was eager for a leisurely shower.  I quickly changed my plans after discovering that while my hotel room has a fine air conditioning system, it’s lacking in a hot water system.  I’m not quite sure how I feel about this lack of hot water, as I admit that I love a steamy shower.  I think that I will need to work on my showering technique over the next few days to insure maximum cleanliness in minimal time.  I will admit that the closet style shower is a bit claustrophobic, so it’s probably better that I’ll be in and out as quickly as possible.  I’m not sure it’s a good thing to think about scenes from Psycho or Prison Break while showering.  How I wish that my son, Brad, had not commented prior to my trip, upon seeing images of my hotel, that it looks like “it was once a prison.”  When I asked why, he explained in detail, noting, “I watch a lot of Prison Break, Mom.  I know what prisons look like in Central America.”  I guess  I should be glad that this knowledge comes from viewing a television show, instead of firsthand experience.

Prison Break?

Prison Break? According to Brad, yes.

Wake up!!

Wake up!!

After sliding on my flip-flops, my first outing in Santa Ana was to the historical center of the city.  Benjamin took me to the Cathedral de Santa Ana.  The courtyard to the church is a virtual menagerie of street vendors, selling everything from socks to coconut water, children, chasing the numerous pigeons, and beggars, seeking funds from those attending church.  The church is a fairly imposing structure, serving as the focal point for the city’s town square.  Visually, this set-up reminds me of when I taught in Amherst, New Hampshire.  The village green of Amherst is hedged by a church, a town hall, a school, and a small store.  The same is true in Santa Ana, though there is also a theatre and an extensive central market.

Chasing Birds Outside the Cathedral

Chasing Birds Outside the Cathedral

Machetes and Coconuts=Bliss

Bliss: Machetes and Coconuts

Cathedral de Santa Ana

Cathedral de Santa Ana

City Hall de Santa Ana

City Hall de Santa Ana

Teatro de Santa Ana

Teatro de Santa Ana

Centro de Santa Ana

Centro de Santa Ana

I am just beginning to understand the role that religion and faith play here in El Salvador.  Benjamin explained that essentially those of the Catholic faith “run” the country, having access to good jobs and positions of status.  If you’re “other” Christian (Evangelical, Baptist, etc.), then you’re also likely to secure a decent job and status–though these are guaranteed if you’re Catholic.  I was quite surprised when Benjamin acknowledged that it is not uncommon to be asked one’s religion on job applications here in El Salvador.  When he saw the look of surprise on my face, I explained to Benjamin that in the U.S. religion does not play a role when one is considered for a job.  In fact, I said that “freedom of religion,” part of First Amendment, is intended to insure that individuals do not face discrimination, due to faith, in the workplace.   Given that I’ll be teaching the Bill of Rights and Constitution upon my return to Boston, I can’t wait to share this conversation with my students.  I think it will lead to some great conversations and debates.

Cathedral de Santa Ana

Cathedral de Santa Ana

Flames of Faith

Flames of Faith

Since it’s Sunday there was actually a service while we were at the cathedral.  I was reminded of services I attended with my friend, Julie Baldwin, when I was little at Sacred Heart on Maple Avenue.  I attempted, just once, to receive communion, thinking that “the body and blood of Christ” sounded like an interesting concept, only to have Father Manheart laugh and pat me on the head before moving onto Julie. Anyway, the cathedral in Santa Ana was packed.  Benjamin explained that if you’re not in church on a Sunday morning and you’re out on the street, then it usually means that you’re up to no good.  I soon found out what exactly he meant.

Having seen confessionals  in the U.S. that are large box type structures that provide privacy for both the confessor and the priest,  the confessionals in El Salvador were quite a surprise.  Here, confessors kneel outside the confessional with the priest housed inside.  Confessions were taking place during the service, so anyone in the congregation could see who was confessing.  I know that they cannot hear the confession, but I’m not sure how I would feel about everyone seeing me confess.  I can only imagine the thoughts running through everyone’s minds about the horrible deeds that I committed.  Maybe it’s just my paranoia or my need for privacy, but I’m not sure that if I would be rushing to confession on a regular basis with this “public” set-up.

Magic Bus

Magic Bus

After leaving the center of Santa Ana, we waited for the bus to take us to Benjamin’s house.  A bus ride cost $00.20 here in Santa Ana, significantly less than the $1.25-1.70 fares of the MBTA in Boston; however, the buses are basically “yellow” school buses.

I experienced what was to be the first of many “sales” pitches on this trip.  As we were about to leave on our journey, two men, who appeared to be in their mid-twenties, climbed aboard and proceeded to handout plastic flowers (other typical “offerings” include pencils, candy, bookmarks).  Once we were all provided with a flower, one of the men returned to the head of the bus while the other stayed in the back.  Then, the man in the front began to speak in a very animated manner.  Once again, given that I am sadly not a speaker of Spanish, I was unable to understand much of what he was saying. I will admit that my Latin came in handy, but still I couldn’t understand a great deal. Benjamin was kind enough to give me the general idea of his “sales pitch”:  “Please accept this gift.  Know that this is not a robbery, for we have changed our ways.  We are not going to steal from you. We ask that you make a donation for the flower that you have in your hand.  If you do not, please know that my friend and I can make your lives uncomfortable.  We are simply asking for a donation.” So, we made our “donations,” keeping the flowers and avoiding possible harm.

Faith

Faith

During this ride I began to realize that the reports of violence and danger in El Salvador are not, unfortunately, exaggerated. My students who are from El Salvador warned me about the region, but I thought perhaps things had improved there in the past few years.  Glancing down a side street during this ride, I saw yellow police tape and a mass of officers surrounding a body on the street.  Benjamin’s response, “That’s how they do it now.  It doesn’t matter if it’s Sunday morning or the middle of the day.  If a gang wants to retaliate, it will seek justice when it wishes. He explained that the gang members used to stand out because of the way they dressed, the prominence of their tattoos, and the manner in which they walked, but they have changed their ways.  Now, it is difficult to tell a gang member from any one else on the street.  Once in a while there’s a swagger to the walk–old habits die hard– but often it’s impossible to tell.

I wondered how you get through each day having to constantly watch one’s back.  I was already exhausted from thinking so carefully about every move I made–putting my camera away, not wearing jewelry, never taking the same path twice.  Not three hours into my first day in El Salvador and  seeing one murder victim made me more than a bit wary.  Yet, Benjamin offered that it is for these reasons–the reality of the dangers and violence in El Salvador– that faith is so important. “If not for faith,” he conveyed, “you might not believe that it is possible to make it through the day.  You need to have faith in God, for He will provide protection in even the most dangerous of situations.” Honestly, I’ve not thought a great deal about the relevance of faith in quite some time, but I found myself reflecting about the necessity of faith on this day.

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Mode: ON

First day in Santa Ana after a long trip from Boston.   I arrived rather late in the evening after a flight delay out of Houston.  I was glad to have my usual supply of Duty Free chocolate and tea to help me through the tedious flight.

Essentials of Travel

View from a Flight Delay

Among my fellow passengers was a group from the U.S. heading to El Salvador to build bridges–literally and figuratively.  The goal of the group is to unite some of the more rural areas of El Salvador through the construction of bridges, while also attempting to “repair” international relations between El Salvador and the United States.  The group works in El Salvador for 4-6 weeks, heads home for two weeks, then returns to complete the project.  Interesting concept–I look forward to read more about the “building bridges” concept upon my return to the U.S.

I arrived at the airport in El Salvador around 12:00 am.  After moving quickly through the line to pay my $10.00 “entry fee” into the country, I was greeted outside by my host, Benjamin Garcia, and his comrade, Samuel.  A few days into my exchange, Benjamin showed me a video entitled “Only in El Salvador.”  One of the clips stated, “Only in El Salvador is everyone famous” and showed arrive-es being greeted by waving crowds outside the airport exit.  Yes, I felt like a star–and this feeling continued throughout my time in El Salvador.

After a longer than expected ride to Santa Ana (the airport is not in San Salvador), passing fields of burning sugar cane, cows gathering by the side of road, and lights masking the stars above the city of San Salvador, we arrived at my home for the next two weeks, the Hotel de Centro in Santa Ana.  The hotel’s owner greeted us at the locked gate, showed me to my room, and asked cash payment for my lodging.  After fumbling with my funds (math has never been my strength), we attempted to converse while he wrote out a receipt. Eventually, however, we gave up–as I do not speak Spanish and he did not speak English.

Home in Santa Ana

"Home" in Santa Ana

Upon completing this major financial transaction, I said my goodbyes to Benjamin and Samuel.  Finally, I crawled into bed at 2:00 am–thinking that it had been a long time since I had gone to bed that late.  Little did I realize that this would be the first of many late nights–for the next two weeks I was officially, as Benjamin says, “On Salvadorean time!”

 

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Here we go….

Tools of the Trade

I am not a blogger.

Those who know me well will tell you that I am a talker and I am a writer.  I talk a great deal, just ask my very patient family and students.  I write when possible, especially when I am traveling and find myself inspired by the people and land of the area I am visiting.  I am not, however,  comfortable writing online about my family, my experiences….my life.  I have no problem writing brief updates on Facebook or posting my latest food and drink pictures (I admit that I have a problem in this area), but I believe that my personal experiences are probably not worthy of an entire blog.  My sister is the master blogger in our family.  She does, however, have a specific talent that is worthy of a blog.  I, unfortunately, do not.

So, why am I blogging?   I have attempted to put this blog off for as long as possible.  I have only one week left of my thirty day limit for initial “deliverables” to IREX/TEA, a section of the State Department for Cultural Affairs that sponsors international teacher exchanges. I spent a great deal of my time writing during the exchange, so now I will transfer some of what I wrote the “old fashioned” way to this blog.  Please note that am calling this a “James Joyce” approach to blogging–stream of consciousness with little attention to the details of mechanics and more attention to the reflections about the experience.

Given that this exchange was one of the most wonderful experiences of my life, being required to create several blog entries isn’t much to ask. So, here we go…my first blog.

Enjoy,

Julie

 

Teaching Excellence and Achievement Program (TEA)

“This blog is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the grantee’s own and do not represent the Teaching Excellence and Achievement Program, the International Leaders in Education Program, IREX, or the U.S. Department of State.”

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